It is possible to book a guided tour at Tarifa when you buy your ferry ticket but, when we did that, we found it immensely disappointing. We ended up in a huge group being coached here and there, rushed through the market, having a poor meal in a ‘tourist’ restaurant and even being harassed by hangers-on who stood at doorways to prevent us leaving the selected shops we were taken to and who then demanded money! Little information was given about the history, culture and people. The highlight of the tour was a ride up into the hills for a view over the town and the distant Atlas Mountains. Even then, it transpired that the actual purpose was to have a camel ride on a sad piece of wasteland, with even sadder camels, and not to visit the ancient palaces as we had been told!
The first time I ever went to Tangiers was in January last year, travelling with two friends from La Joya. On reaching Tangiers, we were approached by a government guide, with a badge, good English and a promise that the tour would cost us nothing. Mohammed took us to change some money, then to a restaurant as we were starving by then. The food was typical Moroccan but, although we had some choice, it was a tourist restaurant catering for large groups, so it is worth insisting upon something better. As we were to stay overnight, he took us to our hotel where we checked in. Our rooms overlooked the port and seemed fine until the night time when we were disturbed by the running engines of the refrigerated lorries in the car park below. We hadn’t noticed them earlier!
All the while, Mohammed had been telling us about Tangier, its people and the places we were to visit. However, we were handed over to his brother and we had visions of an army of relatives being employed on the job and wondered what the day would bring.
It was fine though. We ambled through the Kasbah with its myriad, narrow streets, climbing and descending the hill. The tall houses seem to lean into one another and there were small squares where boys played football. Only the rich can afford running water in their homes, so most used the common water supply, which is free. We were told that there are five essentials things that each area must have; a mosque, a Koran school, water, a school and a baker. We visited one with a wood burning oven where he baked large round flat bread, tasty biscuits and flans. Women can take their own bread and biscuits to be baked there too.
There were some tiny shops set up in what seemed to be entrance halls, selling groceries, vegetables or newspapers. Tailors sat sewing in the dim interiors while girls skipped in the narrow streets under supervision.
The market was amazing with its pyramids of fruit and vegetables. Upstairs were the workshops of the weavers with their looms, spinning wheels (one made from a bicycle wheel), sacks of assorted wool and some finished rugs and cloth hanging on display.
Our guide took us to two ‘family businesses’ to see Berber crafts and spices. Of course, they turned out to be sales pitches but we were glad to sit for a while drinking delicious mint tea while admiring the beautiful carpets (Berber crafts) and later to enjoy hearing about the different spices, without feeling the need to buy a thing. These were the same shops we visited on the other tour but then they were far less friendly and it was quite unpleasant.
That evening, we ate at a wonderful fish restaurant that offers a set meal of delicious fish soup, amazing bread, a sizzling pan of spinach, prawns and chilli and a grilled fish to share, all accompanied by refreshing home made fruit juice. For dessert, there was a nuts and honey dish and a strawberry and honey dish following by a glass of tea. The evening streets were busy and everywhere we found carts selling bread or soup or stew.
The following day, we visited the Kasbah Museum on our own. Despite having walked those streets before, we got totally lost! The museum is well worth visiting. It’s a former palace with exhibitions of carved and painted shutters, old doors, jewellery, swords and daggers and ceramics. The building itself is lovely with high carved, wooden ceilings and a cool, quiet garden.
Now, a word or two of warning: if you choose to venture off on your own, or you have dispensed with your guide for the day, beware of eager young men who claim to know exactly where the hotel/restaurant/museum is. They will cling like limpets, lead you there in a roundabout way, then loudly demand money! Then there’s the businessman who will take you via his shop! You have no idea how persistent these people are. New laws are supposed to prevent the traditional hassling that used to occur, but it still goes on.
Another thing, if you take the tour from Tarifa, you will only need to go through Passport Control on the ferry to Tangier as they give you a boarding pass for the return journey. However, if you pick up a guide in Tangier or do your own thing, leave plenty of time to visit Passport Control in the ferry terminal at Tangier. We assumed it would be on the ferry again and nearly missed the boat as the queues were long!
All in all, Tangier is a fascinating place, if only you were left alone to enjoy it!