Friday, 15 May 2009 09:29
Elizabeth Partridge
Once virtually impregnable, this Moorish kingdom fell in 1485 just seven years before the Conquest of Granada. The city still has some lovely Moorish palaces interspersed with Renaissance mansions as well as delightful narrow streets through which to wander. Our tour starts in Plaza de la Merced at the church of the same name. Nearby is a handy underground carpark. On the corner across the road is a cafe which serves good coffee and toast which will keep you going until lunchtime. The Church and Convent of La Merced date back to the 16th century. If it is open when you arrive, take a look inside. Afterwards, walk through the nearby park to reach the Mirador de la Alameda for wonderful views and a literally breathtaking drop to the valley below. From here, there is a narrow lane which takes you to the bullring. This is the oldest bullring in Spain, opened in May 1785, and is where bullfighting on foot first started. You can take a guided tour or wander round on your own. Across the square is the tourist office where you can get maps, books, posters and postcards. The assistants are helpful there. Take the lane to the left of the tourist office, which is filled with tables in summer, to reach the ‘new’ bridge, which was actually built in 1793. It has three main sections with a chamber in the centre which was originally used as a prison. This was last used during the Civil War, when Ronda was the site of some vicious massacres; it was thought that prisoners were thrown alive into the gorge. The bridge links the new part of town with the old Moorish part. Cross the bridge and take Calle Tenorio to to the right, stopping to admire the views from the Mirador El Campillo. There is a path leading down to some cottages and a view of the new bridge if you wish to take a detour. Otherwise, continue along this street until you reach Plaza Mondragon for a real treat. The City Museum is in a Moorish palace and it is the architecture more than the exhibits (though they are good) which will delight you. Built around 1491, its layout is centred around three courtyards: Renaissance, late Gothic and Moorish, the last being the way into pretty gardens through an Andalucian archway. The Catholic monarchs stayed here after Ronda fell. The museum now has a little shop. On exiting, continue in the same direction, past the Convent of La Caridad, and into a pretty square, La Plaza de la Duquesa de Parcent. The park in the centre is surrounded by churches, convents and the City Hall. It is a great place to eat in the summer. On entering the square, turn left and find the Church of Santa Maria la Mayor which is worth a visit. The entrance fee now includes an informative audio guide. Built on the site of a 12th century Mosque, remains from the arch of the Mihrab can still be seen. It is a mixture of styles from Renaissance to Baroque. Of particular note are the beautifully-constructed panels depicting the Way of Our Lady and the unusual murals by R Pagegie which tell stories from the Bible. Upstairs, in a little room filled with wonderful icons, is an access to the balcony from where dignitaries watched the fiestas and processions in the square. The crypt is now a museum and shop. On leaving the church via the crypt, you will find a restaurant opposite which is really delightful inside. It serves a menu del dia and a plate of mixed tapas (which includes snails). It is a good place to stop for lunch in winter or early spring. From there, walk past the City Hall to the Citadel, turning left to find the old city walls. You can follow these down to the Moorish baths at river level, literally walking the walls in some places. The views are great. You can tour the baths if you wish. Climb back to the second -- the ‘ancient’ – bridge, cross over and enter the park. This route gives you excellent views over the river, bridges and the houses perched on the opposite side. It is especially good for a complete view of the new bridge. An alternative route is to follow the lefthand side of the gorge under the Bridge Gateqya, climbing up Calle Santo Domingo to the house of the Moorish King. The house is sadly in total disrepair, but you can visit the gardens and even descend the steps, carved out by Christian slaves, which lead to the river. These steps guaranteed water in times of seige. Either of these routes will bring you back to the new bridge.
