When I decided to visit this small village, with a population of only 729, which lies on the slopes of the Sierra de Grazalema National Park in the Cadiz province, I expected to stay for only a couple of hours perhaps exploring. Little did I know what this village had in store for me and that the village has been declared an Historic Site. The scenery with its flora and fauna is outstanding as to be expected in this region and for walkers or strollers alike the route of the Roman road which links the old Ocuri (Ubrique) with Lacilbula (Grazalema) has spectacular views. Three other routes are Salto del Cabrero, Los Nacimientos and the ascent of El Cintillo ot Las Buitreras de la Otrera, which is home to a colony of vultures and their nests.
The Moors founded the first village in the 8th Century under the protection of a castle known as Tavizna Castle, which lies along the Rio Tavizna 4 kms from the village but is now in ruins. Remains have been found at the Veredilla summit and in the Cave of La Manga which
show that human settlements have been in this area since prehistoric times. Parking by the small shrine to San Blas, the patron saint we walked up a gentle slope into the town centre. The Town Hall that day was a small hub of activity with a stage decked out with speakers, musical instruments and food tables in honour of the judging of the May Crosses – another day to party with the evening highlight of dancing and music supplied by an enthusiastic Cuban Band. The decorated Town Hall cross was magnificent as would be expected but more amazing were the smaller crosses decorated in many of the small streets
by the town’s inhabitants. We followed the judges around for a short while before stopping at the Parish Church of San Pedro, where Mass was in progress thereby thwarting our attempts at photography.
A small entrance opposite the Town Hall led us into the Las Vegas Bar, which opened out into a good sized restaurant with unspoilt, jaw dropping views over this wild terrain, a perfect viewpoint for the wild animals which pass this way. In winter when the snow falls the Ibex close in looking for food below the restaurant, a great place to watch whilst staying warm and cosy. On the staircase, there is an amazing wooden statue of a contemporary woman carved out of the trunk of a holm oak tree – an excellent example of modern art meets nature.
Colourful signs on the street walls direct you to the places of interest and our next stop had to be the Sierra of Cadiz History Museum, which transports you back through time. This museum with its seven large salons to explore would put a larger city museum to shame. The wealth of information and artefacts displayed dating back to Paleolithic and Roman times are absolutely incredible enabling you to track through the history of the area with amazing clarity. On entering I tried to pay the young lady behind the desk who charmingly informed me that entrance was free. On leaving I spoke to her again, praising the whole set up and suggesting they charge an entry fee. Come on folks, a couple of euros is nothing for what you get out of it.
Again thanks to the signs I approached the place which for me is another paradise and which I had no idea existed. The Barrio Nazari (Nasrid Quarter) of the town. This is set above, yet part of, the present day town and is a whole town in itself. Excavations have begun, the streets are there to walk through and the various buildings ranging from temples, barracks, stables, shops and of course everyday houses of the period. All have lost their roofs but most are still standing full height in places, with their fireplaces, doorways, windows and niches intact. There is even an old well, which though dangerous to approach obviously still holds water as in long ago. The area is somewhat overgrown with vegetation though no one could object to the blaze of wild flowers within its midst. This area alone took us 4 hours to investigate and photograph. There was just so much and still we didn’t manage to cover the harder parts. Another trip will be called for I think!
The refreshing water from the town’s fountains rejuvenated us enough until we came across the Los Saltos Restaurant. With a magnificent viewpoint both inside and outside, we enjoyed another refreshing drink with tapas that has to be the best value I’ve sampled so far. A huge bowl of delicious home made Rusa salad served with fresh crusty bread for the princely sum of 1 euro!!!! The local cuisine to sample is the "refrito", a dish of fried meat and vegetables, or a brandy flavoured egg dessert, "huevos nevados".
Celebrations are held on the 3rd February to honour the village patron saint, San Blas, which date back to the 17th Century. A procession features the traditional folk songs and dances such as "la ferigonza" and "abandolao" and offerings made to San Blas include chacinas (large pork sausages) that are shared out. As usual, Semana Santa is celebrated and from the 12th to 15th August, the Toro de Cuerda fair is held, which is not for the faint hearted as bulls run through the streets followed by singing and dancing, typical dishes and trap shooting, including the tiro del gallo (cockerel shoot). This you do not want to win, as the prize is the cockerel.
For walking, photography, bird watching, and history this is a stunning place to be with an added bonus. No scooters or motorbikes – definitely a beautiful quiet piece of heaven on earth.
Article: Ursula Beal
Photography: Brian Grady
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