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Home  Blog Cuevas del Cierro
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Cuevas del Cierro |
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Written by Ursula Beal
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 This small town situated in the Province of Malaga is only 20 kms from Ronda and 105 kms from Malaga city with a population of around 2,000 residents. It sits quietly beside the Ronda to Campillos road and yet is a gateway to the mountains – la puerta de la serrania – and what history it has seen. The layout of the town is somewhat like a corridor flanked on one side by the Sierra de Vijan and on the other Los Tercios Hill and follows the River Las Cuevas.
Although Prehistoric Man lived here the enigma of the origin of its name meaning “Caves of the Yearling Calf” has become shrouded by history and forgetfulness. Two main theories exist – the first that a farmer lost a yearling calf in one of the many cave systems and then found it alive and well!! The second that a golden statue of a yearling calf was worshipped and hidden in the caves, found, then never seen again. Both theories are very unlikely so here is a third theory – my own! The area has always been agricultural with a wealth of yearling calves, which as we all know, like children can be hot headed, impulsive and prone to getting lost. What better place to keep them from harm than in the shelter of the cave systems away from as many natural predators as possible and easier to protect in their first year. Remember also that through the town corridor many travellers and armies would pass who would want to buy or steal meat for their tables. The vast and intricate cave systems, well known to the locals would be a superb natural corral.
Parking the car was relatively easy and conveniently outside a small tapas Bar, Pepes, the staff of which proved to be very informative about their town. After refreshment and thanks we proceeded to the Church of San Antonio Abad, which in its present form only dates back to the 19th Century. As most churches, this little town has lavished its love and pride into the statues and altars inside. An ancient wooden priest seat stands quietly and well polished at the back, its door ajar for you to try from which you can observe without being observed. We wandered through the main street of the town amazed that everyone we passed, smiled and greeted us until we felt quite at home. The Ayuntamiento was friendly and also houses the town library. Both so far do not have town maps available but I believe they are on the agenda. I decided to turn into a side street, which led through to what I can only describe as fascinating back lanes to the houses. Here nearly every house has its own allotment type garden mainly for its own use, and some with livestock in. The views over these gardens showed the acres and acres and variety of agricultural products grown here always flanked and protected by the mountains but very reminiscent of the British Isles both in its colours and layout. Scattered in between were fields grazed by cattle, sheep, pigs and goats all forming a totally different landscape to the seas of olive groves I am used to and forming a refreshing change. A lush and fertile land indeed.
The town has a large football ground complete with floodlights next to which is Las Casas de las Vinas, where ceramic objects and coins pertaining to the Roman era have been found including the existence of a settlement during the Roman Empire with the remains of an oil factory and a potter’s workshop with two kilns and remains of a third used to produce ceramic objects typical of Roman domination. First written records relate to its capture by Alfonso XI from the Moslems in 1330 along with Teba, Ardales, Cañete la Real and Priego. The parish archives house documents from the 18th century showing the village was owned by the Marchioness of Cuevas del Becerro and Benameji and the seat of this formidable lady’s estates lay across the border in the province of Córdoba.
In the centre of the town is a small Plaza de Libertad with a bandstand, fountain, trees, flowers and seats meticulously kept with the river and a small bridge running past to one side. A lovely place to sit and ponder for a while. Tuesday, as we were to find out is market day with some very interesting stalls and local products. An ancient looking truck drove up, flung open its canvas sheet and people surged forward with plastic bags to be filled with many different fresh fruit and vegetables for a pittance. Not washed, not packaged in plastic but straight from the land to the people as nature intended. I just had to join in and came away with a load of potatoes and green vegetables for the princely sum of 4 euros and delicious they were.
Just at the edge of the town is the Neolithic site of Poblado Neolitico del Castilon with a wonderful small crazy paved picnic area. Low stone walls enclose the fruit and almond trees and flowers with many bird species flying around to observe plus the added bonus, if you’re quiet, of seeing the elusive Egyptian Mongoose, which lives in the area and is prepared to share your feast.
 Just below is what was for me was a wondrous sight. An Aqueduct, El Nacimiento, its waters running rapidly down through its many channels from a nearby spring fed from La Sierra del los Merinos. The whole area is green, from the deciduous trees to the vegetation and mosses on the ground and it was so cool and pleasant to walk round and then sit and listen to the tinkling of the flowing water. This really is an oasis of peace and tranquillity although the mill it once served is in ruins.
The festival in honour of their Patron Saint, San Antonio Abad is on the 17th January, with the Fiesta de las Candelarias on the 2nd February. The latter involves the lighting of bonfires in the streets in remembrance of the traditonal fires lit when the labourers went out to work the land. The 25th to 27th February is Carnival time but the most traditonal fiesta is the 19th March - the Fiesta de partir la Vieja (the Day of the Old Person) when it is customary for everybody to go into the countryside to eat, whilst stoning a huge doll they take with them. The Romeria de San Isidro is in the middle of May and emigrants day at the end of July. All Saints Day in November is celebrated by eating roast chestnuts again in the countryside.
 Local produce is bountiful with pork and chickpea stew leading the menu. The economy is based on agriculture with wheat, barley, chickpeas and sunflowers being the most common crops. Looking to the skies it is common to see the majestic eagles and hawks, gliding and swooping on the air currents ever searching for their food amongst the ground animals such as the lynx, mongoose and roe deer.
Cuevas del Becerro, the gateway to the mountains, is well worth taking the time to visit and should be added to everyone’s itinerary. The residents known as the “Cuevenos” are waiting to give you a warm and interesting welcome.
Article: Ursula Beal
Photography: Brian Grady
www.Avistaandaluz.com
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