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Written by andrew perry
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Antequera, now known as the city of the AVE and the Heart of Andalucia, is always worth a visit. There is such a wealth of lovely places to visit that a little guided tour might set you off in the right direction.
Park in the multi-storey car park in Calle Diego Ponce and walk through the archway into Plaza San Francisco where you will find the indoor morning market. Browse the fruit, veg and meat stalls and follow your nose to the spices. There is a tea stall too which sells leaf teas and accessories. Leave the market by the door leading onto the square and take the Plaza Fernando Viagas road. Opposite the square is the City Library. This used to be a monastery and has been beautifully restored. From the cloistered patio with its fountain, look up to see the storks on the bell tower. Go up the tiled steps for a different view. Open Mon - Fri 9.30 - 1.30, 5.30 - 7.30.
Continue down the road, over the crossroads onto Calle Carrera where you turn left. Continue until you come to the Church of Santiago. A charming old Spanish lady will show you around this delightful 18th century church, through the vestry to the patio and even through a tiny door behind the altar for an incredible close up view of the Virgin de la Salud. Opposite is the baroque Church of Santa Eufemia, the patron saint of Antequera. This is a beautiful octagonal chapel with a convent attached which only seems to open for concerts! Carry on along the street between the churches to Belen Church, a stunning example of symmetry. Admire the richly decorated cupola and gorgeous statues. The convent is home to Carmelite nuns who make biscuits and desserts such as Bienmesabe which you can buy if you go through the door on the left from the patio. There is a list of things to buy on the door with prices.
Go back to Calle Carrera and turn left. Nearby you will find Bar Nico or Bar Carrera where you can take a break. Follow the road until you reach Plaza de las Descalzas where there is a small patio with fountain and trees. The Museum of Descalzas is interesting to visit though is a timed tour. You can only stay in the church or the museum rooms as long as the light lasts! However, there are some lovely things to see all belonging to the convent. Don´t miss the beautiful belen!
Climb Cuesta de Rojas beside the church up to Plaza de Carmen where you turn left to find one of Antequera´s treasures. The 16/17th century Church of Carmen contains an extraordinary altar screen, considered to be the best example of Spanish Barroque art, carved entirely from wood and is a wonder to behold. The church was recently restored and although not much information is to be found, it is lovely to walk around, in and out of the decorative side chapels. It is open Tues to Fri 10.30 to 1.30, 4.30 to 6, Sat and Sun 10.30 to 1.30. 2 euros. From the patio beside the church there is a great view over the city and of the Peña.
Backtrack to Plaza de Carmen where you will find some steps leading up to the castle. Take a look at the ancient door at the top before going through the narrow lane. Turn right then left up steps into Plaza de Escribanos. Apart from a view over the Roman ruins, there is Santa Maria Mayor to visit. No longer a church, it is used for concerts and exhibitions. Admire the statue of poet Pedro Espinosa in the square while you enjoy delicious tapas or lunch at the restaurant El Escribano. Afterwards make your way out via the Arco de los Gigantes for a spectacular view over the city and a leisurely stroll down steps. Follow the road right back to Plaza de las Descalzas, turn left, cross by the lights and head down Calle Calzada back to the car park. Enjoy!
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Andrew Perry |
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